Its been coming for a while..........................

OK, so no post's for a year, have I still got this project? Yes. But, it's time to admit defeat. I have lost interest, mainly as I lack the skill's and the physical ability to complete it, and I really don't want to spend money having someone else finish it. Having now thrown my other bike down the road I need to channel my energy and funds on that for a while. Here's the latest photo's, which makes it look nearer the goal, a TM Inspired street scrambler. It still needs work. It came with no wiring (well, almost none) so it needs a scratch built loom, or buying another used loom and adapting (the easier option) Really, the exhaust needs cutting and welding to bring the downpipe nearer the frame, but that's just for aesthetics. It'll need chain and sprockets, a magneto cover and a lock for the fuel tank. The final fixing for the tank and seat needs sorting and the rear tyre is not legal. There's more, I'm sure.

It'll go on ebay, either as it is, or broken for parts. Just need to think it through. (ideally, I'd like to swap it for a complete, MOT'd and running, but cosmetically challenged bike. 250 plus cc if a smoker, 400 plus cc if a four stroke. I'm open to anything.

A bit of an update..............

For the forth time, I've re-fabricated the headlight bracket, lifting the final position, and pulling it back towards the headstock. Not clear from the photo's, but the rear mudguard has had to be modified a bit, just to get it repositioned, and the airbox has been changed slightly. I cut up a fiberglass front mudguard (made to mount on the fork legs on a Sports Bike or Cafe Racer. I'm still not sure if I can run the bike without one, so it's a quick fix for an MOT and will be coming off. Handle bar controls are next. They're on, but I need a kill switch, a wiring sub harness, and, well loads more. The Gunnar Gasser I picked up is missing it's top. I've either lost it, although I don't remember taking it apart, or it came without one. A penny washer I had fits perfectly, and I've found somewhere that stocks genuine spares, so I'll get one ordered eventually.
A sort break from building now. Work, followed by a trip to Santa Pod next weekend, followed by work, and more work.

Still a long way, but................

I couldn't help myself, especially as the last two posts had photos taken with my phone and a smudged lens. So out with the Nikon, on with the wheels, tank and seat, and out into the sunshine.

Looking good, but a lot to do. Lots of messy little bits. Next will be trying to make the best use of the airbox! At the moment I come of the carb at 48mm and into the airbox at 41mm, with a very short run to connect the two. As I have no technical reason to use the airbox - after all, I chose it as a carrier for the battery and oil tank - so I'm thinking a black silicon reduction hose, turning through 90 degree's, and topped with a foam or paper filter inside the airbox. If nothing else it will look neat and tidy, and amplify the induction noise, always a plus.

Pure Satin, Rattle Can of course......

So, armed with a couple of rattle cans full of "Tough Black - Satin" the frame gets three coats, with a quick rub down in between. OK, so it wont stand up to a close up inspection, but from even 3ft away, its finished well enough, and besides, I really have no intention of parking it anywhere near a show arena.

I was always going to use Simoniz Tough Black after PJ1 was taken off sale for failing some (probably ridiculous) European law (there's a new formula now and its available again) after it was recommended by a friend who used in some chequer plate on his Land Rover, but I had read on a forum somewhere that this paint is very temperature sensitive, needing heat to cure it, so I've been waiting patiently for a day off corresponding with some Sun. I'll give it a few more days just to be sure, but after drying in the garage until touch dry, it been baked in direct sunlight for a day. So far so good.

In the meantime:

• I'll paint a few sundry parts (I need the side stand fitted as I dont have a bike stand)
• I need to re-fabricate the headlight bracket as it sits the light a bit too close to the headstock. 
• I've picked up another rear wheel which had a TS Hub, laced to an alloy Akront rim (it was cheaper to buy this than have my wheel rebuilt)
• I'm pretty set on painting the wheels (Satin Black again)
• I've also decided to replace the headstock bearing with a tapered bearing kit, so I've ordered a Pyramid kit (£34 ouch)

Stripped - Naked and Raw

I know, I know...... It would have been easier, quicker and not that much more to have it blasted. The result would have been better, but, WTF, I'm doing as much of this myself, so, armed with drill, electric file, 4" grinder, wire brush and all sorts of Emery, Wet and Dry, discs......................................................
its stripped.

Sorry about the photo quality, should have cleaned the lens on my phone...........................

I like your style

From a Plastic Fantastic Beta MX, to a Retro Cool Street Scrambler - nice.

Magnesium no less..............

I had no idea that a Magnesium Clutch cover even existed, but it does:
and it's mine,
and it fits,
and it's NOS,
and it was 30% of the price listed for a new standard cover at a well known dutch website that appears to have a bit of a monopoly on new parts.
Oh, and it replaces the broken cover I discovered, so it's bling I actually needed.

With the top end off, some good news, the bottom end appears solid. The bore is fine, but it will get a top end rebuild anyway while it's apart. Hopefully found a local company to repair the shagged barrel threads, so a rebuild it is.