(more) Inspiration part three (or is it four)

Just love this bike's profile.

Neat dash

Nice seat (I'd like a thumper just to have a Supertrap again)

Where I want to go with my seat, rear light and mudguard.

Just cool

A spare half day!

Finally, I found some time to spend in the garage. Jobs tackled (all partially)

• Cut down the original seat pan (I also made an alloy flat pan, but dont like it.)
• Fit the RM125 Rear wheel.
• Cut the seat subframe down.
• Cut the steel rear mudguard.
• Cut the outline shape for the front mudguard.
• Bend and shape some steel tube to judge if I'll use flat drag style or the original bars.

 I've trimmed 25mm of each side and 65mm from the length (at the front). I'm trying to retain the original seat hinge fittings, but they're ugly, and restricting the amount I can narrow the seat by. I think my best option will be to move the hinges to inside the frame rails.

The seat subframe "loop" will be welded back, which will close the current gap between the mudguard and seat.

Steel trailer muguard, £15.00 from Banbury trailers, delivered the next day, and almost ideal. It's specified for a 13" trailer wheel, and ideally a mudguard for a 15" wheel would be better, but, the width rises from an almost perfect 175mm to 200mm.

Two thirds of the mudguard are used here. Still needs some trimming at the bottom. I quite fancy drilling some holes in the lower section.

The remaining third of the trailer part is being used to fashion a small front mudguard. Still a bit wide, and I've still to find out what I legally need, but I want it as small as possible. Simply fitted to under side of the lower yolk, I'll use an alloy fender brace similar to the photo below. Again, I can feel some holes coming on!

I think I'll stick with flat drag style bars (not as fitted though, as I bent these by hand, wall way to thin)

Bit of welding, single light and number plate wount, lick of paint and it'sdone - If only.

TS250 ER Readers? I need some help!

So, after attacking the rear wheel with an Angle Grinder, releasing the hub ready for a rebuild with an alloy rim, I realise that I didnt measure the offset first! It's not listed (that I can find) in either the Genuine Suzuki, or the Haynes manuals I have.

Yes, I know.

Can anyone help? Do you know what the offset is? Do you have a rear wheel you can measure?

Ping an email  - straightspeed@hotmail.com to me if you can help.

10.07.12 Update

Found an early twinshock RM Wheel. Look's like it will work with some minor mods to the spacers.

Herm Narciso, Dime City Cycles - Makes a Fiberglass Cafe Racer Seat! - P...

Herm Narciso, Dime City Cycles - Makes a Fiberglass Cafe Racer Seat! - P...

All change at the front

No, not a reference to trenchwarfare during The Great War, but an improvement to the TS's stopping power.

A bit of long term thinking - not like me at all - got me pondering. While I'm sure that the 22bhp available to the descerning TS ER owner (when the bike was a bit younger) may have been deemed as OK by Suzuki, I cant help feeling that I'll crave a bit more horses in the future (I still wonder if RM250 or PE250 engine parts are compatible, or, indeed, if a 400 motor will slip in, but I digress) and more horses on the stock drum brake is a worry (I'm not sure it can cope with 22bhp it's so small) so, a disc braked front end then.

 Trawling through some forums, I came across a list of bike's (not a complete list, but enough for investigation of some options) on Caferacer that share the TS's 36mm diamete stanchion's (it's the same list from where the idea of using Suzuki's RM Air forks that were the original plan came from - now for sale on ebay) From this list I made a list of possible options, and started saving search lists on ebay (more bloody emails!) when "bingo" a complete set of new forks and yokes from a 2006 XT125 at a reasonable price (£726 new from Yamaha - ouch) of £139. Buy now button clicked, Paypal activated, and I've got some new disc compatible forks. Another £40 later and a 2006 wheel with disc and part worn tyre are also mine.

While it's quite a chunk of cash, I was into at least £100 to get the hub and rim re-spoked, idealy the other stanchions would have been re-chromed, another £165 (although most of the pitting is outside the all important area of travel) and a tyre was need anyway (£50?) so I'm actually better off, and with better brakes, and all new parts.

Not the best photo I've taken, but you can at least see the new front end

I really must.......

tidy the garage, it's only a few months old and already a mess.

Little, and not too often!

I've not been completly idle, and have now made some sort of start, albiet a slow one. Time is my biggest enemy at the moment.

Early model TS400 Tank and '76 RM 125 forks partially fitted

I found a set of forks from a 1976 RM125 on "that" auction site. They've still got 36mm diameter Stanchions and still drum for brakes but benefit from having air assistance as standard, with better internals (I'll post a side by side comparison next time I get the chance) and the Yokes (triple tree's if you are Stateside) are all alloy. Even better, it was an easy fit. I've just had to press on the lower bearing cup, and it all went on a treat - If funds allow, the bearings will be replaced with roller bearings, but the originals are in A1 condition it's not a must have at this stage. All though overall the RM forks are a bit longer, the front steel 21" wheel rim is being replaced with an alloy 19" rim (another auction find, originally fitted to a CL350 I think, also found a replacement alloy rim for the rear from an old Husky). Also the spindle is an offset mount rather than at the bottom, which will give a bit less trail. From the photo you will see that ideally I'll need some bar risers if I stick to my Flat Bar plan (thats just some correct diameter Stainless tube I found, the wall's a bit to thin otherwise I'd use it!)


The tank is an earlier - '76 again I think - TS250/400 Tank. Sits on the frame perfectly, but ideally I'll have to cut and weld the rear most mounting point on the frame to secure it (I could get away with a strap of some kind)

By using the RM Yokes, I'll lose the clock mounting lugs, which is fine, as I only want a speedo. I've already drilled and tapped some holes in the lower yoke for the number board. I cant find a decent looking off the shelf bracket to attach the board yet though. I can mount the 100mm headlamp the same way, but the dominator style lamp I've picked up is, with hindsight, a bit too long. If I cant find another, I can feel the disc cutter coming out again. I'll probably not drill a hole for the steering lock and just grind the lug of the frame. They're crap at best, and wont stop it being stolen.


Yet another ebay find, an unused, but tatty, Expansion Chamber. What it was originally for I';ve no idea, but took a punt on it anyway. A bit of cutting and welding and it can be made to fit, either over the cylinder as per the original, or hanging under the frame road bike style. I like the idea of both????

I've been pondering the seat? I want a "Brat style" cut down low profile seat, but I dont think it will work using the original seat pan. Do I make a glass fibre base, or an alloy base, or do I find another and "adapt" it.